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Borobudur - tapestry of stone

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“You know it might be just this one anonymous glory of all things, this rich stone forest, this epic chant, this gaiety, this grand choiring shout of affirmation, which we choose when all our cities are dust; to stand intact, to mark where we have been, to testify to what we had it in us to accomplish.”

The quote is Orson Welles talking about the cathedral at Chartres, and it’s from the movie “F for Fake” but it could just as easily have been about the topic of this post. Borobudur - a tapestry of stone, a rich stone forest, an epic chant. I’d read about Borobudur in history textbooks, as the lesser known sibling of Angkor Wat, and I’d long had a desire to visit the temple and see for myself if it matched up to its formidable reputation. Earlier this year, an anthropologist friend researching urban planning in the nearby Javan city of Jogjakarta urged me to visit, and I did not need to be asked twice.

Borobudur is located about an hour away from the city of Jogjakarta in East Java, brooding over the surrounding paddy fields. It is rather too close for comfort to the active volcano Gunung Merapi, and the latter has over the years been a constant concern for the safety of the temple. However, Borobudur has survived not only the vagaries of Merapi’s explosions and numerous earthquakes, but even human attempts to destroy it. It still stands largely intact, a testament to the endurance of faith.
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The mark of a Javanese man

BirdMarket

On my first day in the Indonesian city of Jogjakarta, my friend, anthropologist and all round Matahari, Sheri, handed me a map of the city with illustrations showing the various points of interest. My eye was immediately drawn to a little picture of a birdcage in the bottom left corner, right next to the famous Kraton - the palace of the Javanese sultan. It said Pasar Burung which means ‘bird market’. “It’s a market”, Sheri deadpanned, “for birds.”

I’m a sucker for markets. Some of my best times have been spent in the teeming bowels of some native marketplace. Long ago, when I used to work in Delhi, I would scarcely glance at the ramparts of the Red Fort on my way to the old city bazaar, where I spent many a happy hour gorging on kebabs, lingering in motorcycle repair shops and browsing used bookstores. Bazaar over cathedral any day; twice on market day. More recently, a meal of roast pig and boiled corn from the marketplace at Otavalo will linger long in my memory. Small wonder then, that as soon as I’d dumped my bags at the Lilik, I hotfooted it across town to the Pasar Burung.
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American, Cutting Back, Plans $15 Pants Fee

I figured that this story deserved a spoof - Here is my version of the same story.

American, Cutting Back, Plans $15 Pants Fee

Published: May 22, 2008
There’s an old saying about the best way to travel: bring half the clothes and twice the money.

Now may be the time to take that advice to heart and you had better not be Indian or Chinese.

American Airlines said Wednesday that it would soon start charging passengers for the clothes and shoes that they wear. $10 for cotton pants ($15 for Jeans) and $5 for Shirts ($7 for full-sleeved shirts). Additionally, American will charge $5 per shoe ($10 if they are hiking shoes) - if they are flying on a discounted fare. Asked why they charge per shoe and not for a pair of shoes, an American spokesperson said that as per the Americans with Disabilities Act, such pricing would be discriminatory.

The airline’s new policy — to take effect July15 — comes only weeks after many major carriers, including American, began charging $15 each way for checked baggage,

The new fee is just the latest example of airlines adding charges on top of rising airfares, even at the risk of angering travelers further, to make up for the billions of dollars they are losing as fuel prices soar. In an effort to reduce the weight and consequent fuel consumption, airlines continue to explore ways to reduce the weight and the clothes we wear are the latest target.

“It’s only going to get worse and worse,” said Laura Glading, president of the Association of Professional Flight Attendants, which represents employees at American. “Flight attendants are not trained to distinguish between running shoes and hiking shoes, and what if passengers decide not to wear any clothes so as not to pay the fee” said Glading?

American Airlines executives said they had little choice but to impose such fees, given that the price of jet fuel is up more than 80 percent from a year ago.

Airline industry losses could top $7.2 billion in 2008, Jamie Baker, an analyst with JPMorgan Chase, estimated this week. Airline shares were battered Wednesday, as oil surged to a record $133.17 a barrel. Stock in American’s parent company fell 24.2 percent, to $6.22 a share.

In another development, several airlines are considering charging Indians and Chinese an extra fee - because India and China are being blamed for soaring oil prices. The rise in global oil and food prices are being blamed on demand from India and China. Last week President Geroge W. Bush blamed the demand for food with higher nutrition among Indians as the reason for 9% inflation in food prices in the US.

In a surprising move American announced that for every snack purchased by a non-Indian and non-Chinese passenger, Indian and Chinese passengers on board will be assessed an extra fee.”We are looking for every opportunity to change our cost-structure and even President George Bush has said that food prices are rising because of increased demand in India and China, so it is only appropriate that we pass the price of food consumed by average Americans to the average Indian or Chinese.

“Our company and industry simply cannot afford to sit by hoping for industry and market conditions to improve,” American’s chief executive, Gerard J. Arpey, said Wednesday at a shareholder meeting.

To cut costs, the company also said Wednesday that it would eliminate toilet paper and running water from toilets. “The weight of toilet paper and water adds several hundred pounds to the gross weight of an airplane - this move is expected to save $5000 per year and increase share holder value” said Mr Arpey.

American is also considering charging access fees to toilets for discount fare passengers. Robert Harrell, an industry consultant, estimated that as many as 40 million American passengers could be subject to the new toilet access fee. American carries about 98 million travelers a year. With an average of 100 toilet access per flight, at $1 per toilet access this move could potentially net upwards of $40 million per year. “Each passenger will get a cup of water and 3 sheets of toilet paper and 5 minutes of access to the toilet” said Mr Arpey

Asked whether the Toilet paper charge will be arbitrarily passed on to fellow Indian and Chinese passengers, Mr Arpey said “No. We understand that they don’t use toilet paper in India and China, so we can’t charge them for that”

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Complimentary Sonoma Tastings

Quite a few of my friends have Visa Signature credit cards. So, I thought it’d be good to publicize a good benefit from them for those planning to visit the wineries of Sonoma Valley. Visa is now having a promotion that allows Signature card holders to get complimentary tastings at some prominent wineries in Sonoma. See here for the full list. I was up in Sonoma last Saturday and enjoyed this benefit as well as up to 20% discount on wines purchased. Enjoy.

Lethargy

It’s not easy to write when you are going around the world (it’s taking more than 80 days). At the time I first announced my intentions to travel and keep the rantlust community updated on my adventures, I thought I’ll really stick to it. But there’s been too many ‘I’ll-blog-at-the-next-pit-stop’ promises to myself without much avail. Travelling is a draining activity especially if you are doing too much stuff. It’s been three months since I last wrote (about Tibet) and now Tibet is such a distant memory.

The Internet is everywhere I go and yet, I can’t bring myself to write. I am not even writing on my journal. And slowly over the months, I have attained this stage of travel nirvana where I don’t even see a lot of the touristy stuff. I just show up at places, meet some people (some fellow travelers, some locals) and just hang. Sip a coffee or chai here, sip a beer there, eat some noodle soup here, eat some Thai fish curry there. I sit and watch children play on the beach; young adults canoodle on park benches; Japanese tourists take pictures of me with whatever statue is behind me; get hit on by local men and touristy women. Life goes on. I occasionally pop into an Internet cafe to check on close friends and family and let them know I’m still in it. But even news has lost a lot of the meaning for me. I mean, what’s the point really? Unless you are on a world domination spree, why bother with what’s happening thousands of miles away? Give the conscience a break and be selfish… in your moment for a while. It feels good.

Random thoughts. Observing people and surroundings with nary a care in the world. Feeling good about humanity. Remembering how tough, interesting, life-changing and amazing the last few months of my life have been. Missing those close to me. Wishing I could get a hug.

I am now in a tiny cafe in Hobart, Tasmania. Beautiful weather. A few clouds in the sky, summer is approaching. I can see Sullivan’s Cove from where I sit. A beautiful woman with a Spanish accent sits by herself at a table nearby. Probably late 30s. She’s talking on a sleek looking phone (no, not the iPhone) to probably a jilted lover. She’s angry but the voice is soft but steady. On the only other table sits a young boy with headphones bigger than his head wrapped around. A girl sits opposite him bored and having a cake. He’s reading some thick tome. The waiter likes me. Keeps coming to my table to chit chat. I think I’ll indulge him. He’s cute. Pakistan and Darfur don’t interest me now. I am living in the here and now. And loving it.

Not a Small World

Recently, fellow blogger Suman asked me half jokingly if there are places in this world that I haven’t been to. Sure, I do love to travel and go to places (some of them damn near exotic) whenever the budget, boss and wife come into perfect alignment and more importantly post photographs and travelogues online. But even my travels have taken me to only a small fraction of this big world of ours. Quite a few of my close friends have been to far more places than I have. Something that can be visualized by the following maps. The first one details all the countries in the world I have been to and the second one displays all the states in the US that I have been to. You can generate your own such links here (world) and here (US).

POTD: Jamaican Graffiti


Graffiti of Bob Marley and Beenie Man at the Flankers neighborhood of Montego Bay, Jamaica

Bay Bridge Closure

Some of you might know this already but for the rest of our readers who are planning a visit to the San Fracisco Bay Area or are living here and didn’t know about this,
be advised that the Bay Bridge will be closed from 8pm Friday, Aug 31 till 5am Tuesday, Sep 4 (the entire Labor day weekend). Try not to drive into the city on these days as traffic will most likely be hellish on the other routes into and out of the city. Use public transit (BART will be running overtime) instead or go elsewhere. The bridge is closed because they are doing some more retrofitting so that we don’t repeat the Loma Prieta mishap during the next big one.

I have to hand it to Caltrans for making every effort to publicise this; I saw signs announcing the closure up near the Oregon border where I was this past weekend.

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